To Cumbrae and back through the Scottish borderlands

Last Monday we left our home near Berwick and drove over the country to the Scottish west coast, roughly on exactly the same longitude as our home in England. It has always fascinated me that we are so close, have so much in common … and yet are so different.To our delight, whilst English Berwick on the east coast was bitterly cold, Cumbrae, in Scotland on the west of the UK, was sky-blue – shorts and sandals weather! We waited for the ferry to take us from Largs to the Isle of Cumbrae.Our visit to the Isle of Cumbrae was prompted by my wish to visit West Kilbride and some very talented Scottish craftswomen there.  Stephen was tasked with finding us somewhere to stay in the locality … and he came up with the College of the Holy Spirit, which adjoins the Cathedral of the Isles on Cumbrae.These establishments were designed by William Butterfield in 1851, at the request of the 6th Earl of Glasgow, George Frederick Boyle. Boyle was an enthusiast of the Oxford Movement, believing in the reinstatement of older Christian traditions.  He wanted the College to train priests for the Episcopal Church – perhaps like the men enjoying the College grounds in this old print below.Alas, Boyle, an enormously generous and devout man (he was also pouring money into the building of Perth Cathedral at this time) depended too much perhaps on divine providence – Dominus Providebit (God will provide) is the Boyle family motto – and went bankrupt in 1885.Luckily the College Chapel had been consecrated as Cathedral for the Scottish Episcopal Church United Diocese of Argyll & The Isles in 1876, so the Diocese was already responsible for these buildings.

The Cathedral Spire towers over the island, even when glimpsed from the hills above.We first glimpsed it through the trees. You get an idea of Butterfield’s original concept from this drawing that appeared on the front of “Butterfield Revisited”, edited by Peter Howell and Andrew Saint, and published by the Victorian Society. The Cathedral stands proud, surrounded by manicured lawns, with a young avenue of lime trees.That’s not how it is now!  The Diocese may have funded the Cathedral buildings, but there was no money to pay for garden upkeep.

By a magical transformation, those uncared gardens have become wild and more beautiful than one could imagine. Trees have grown up everywhere – the lime avenue is enormous. Underneath the trees, are masses and masses of flowering ramsons (wild garlic).The fine lawn banks host bluebells as well as the ramsons.I do so hope George Boyle is not turning in his grave as he contemplates the changed garden!  He is indeed buried here – in the large flat tomb in the foreground of this picture. He must have loved this place very much. It is extraordinary to find such buildings on such a tiny island. Butterfield’s vision of this small group of buildings is harmonious and elegant.  Here you have the windows of the Lady Chapel, the Cathedral and the Refectory – all varied in pattern and size, but united in stone and form. And look how very deftly Butterfield has highlighted the Cathedral window with the descending dove of the Holy Spirit above it.We stayed in the North College which had once housed the choristers. Our room was the upper left hand window, set amidst the tiles.  We had the place to ourselves for the first couple of nights, and after that only another couple came and stayed at the other end of the building. It was extraordinary!The rooms are called after Christian virtues.  Ours was Fortitude ……hmmm.Inside was all dark wood and heavy carving. The corridor …The fireplace in our bedroom ….. huge and cumbersome!The common room …What I didn’t like was the inside of the Cathedral.  It looks OK from here …But once you go up into the Chancel, you get tile madness!  I don’t care for the Victorian tones of green and brown anyhow, but, that to the side, it looks to me as though some student was told to see what variety of patterns they could come up to fill the space available. It’s truly tile pattern madness!Sometimes we joined Warden Amanda and Lay Chaplain Alastair for morning and evening prayers – quiet and peaceful, though the Scottish rite (just slightly different from the Anglican one we know) caught us out a bit …Outside the calm inner sanctuary lurked danger … In the evenings we explored Millport.  I don’t think the authorities meant us to take this image away with us ….And we chuckled at this …..There are lots of boarded up properties round Millport, looking just a little bit sad and unloved … Masses of rabbits everywhere … (not an easy place to be a gardener, I guess) …Including several black ones (or was it the same one and it just got round a lot?)  …After our evening walks, we went back to the College and lowered the ecclesiastical tone, sitting in the warm, evening sunshine with a bottle of wine …The road round Cumbrae is perfect for cyclists of all ages.  This looks like a 1960s group setting out to enjoy a bicycle ride en famille.You can hire all sorts of cycles …We hired two quite ordinary bikes to get round the island.  This was extremely brave of me since I haven’t been on a bike for well over 15 years.  It was a glorious ride, and despite much moaning on my part (the seat was horribly uncomfortable), it was a wonderful experience.Picnic lunch and an opportunity to enjoy the view of the islands of Bute and Arran (grey and lowering in the far distance).I don’t think I have ever seen a war memorial as powerful as this. It is dedicated to the men and women of the British and Allied forces who have no known grave.After our bicycle tour of the island, we spent a couple of days on the mainland about West Kilbride. I got to do the workshop that I have longed to do for so long with lovely Lorna of Chookiebirdie.  We spent an entire day sewing together …. Oh, just look at this sewing heaven!Lorna was teaching me to make paisley botehs like these ones of hers.And I was so thrilled with what I made that I have only just stopped carrying it round with me!Another day I finally got to visit Old Maiden Aunt’s yarn shop in West Kilbride – somewhere else I’ve longed to go to for ages! So many gorgeous colours.  And we got to peak into her dye studio too. As an amateur dyer, it’s fascinating for me to see her professional systems – though perhaps the multi-coloured spatters behind the pots is the give away that Lilith herself might not call it that …I have to confess that I find yarn buying overwhelming.  I may have decided that I am going to make a green scarf, and need green wool, but when I see the yarns available, all my carefully thought out plans go awry.  This is what we came away with – all lovely stuff, but not a lot of green, and certainly not the grassy-greens I had in mind …At the Barony in West Kilbride we found an amazing exhibition of Radical Craft. Doesn’t this Landfill Tantrum by Pinkie MacLure just say all you really long to say about waste and rubbish and pollution?!!Who could not love Rosemary McLeish’s What I Do When I Don’t Do The Ironing ?! Dedicated I think to all those who hate this chore …But the pièces de résistance for me were these two works paying homage (as it were) to Angus McPhee.  They were both made by Joanne B Kaar – the boots are copies of Angus McPhee’s orginal boots (those too fragile to be exhibited now) and she made the hats in the spirit of his work. I came upon the story of Angus McPhee from Donnie Monro’s song, Weaver of Grass.  As far as I can see the pop song world is dominated by mostly saccharine love songs, so  it amazes and delights me to hear such a glorious song about a mentally ill man. Perhaps it is really a love song in another guise …..

Time then to say goodbye to the little Isle of Cumbrae. The weather was changing as we headed back to Largs …On to sunny Sanquhar – another place I’ve wanted to visit for a long time because of their famous knitting designs.  The little Tolbooth Museum there is a gem …Holding information about and examples of lots of historic Sanquhar knitting patterns …..We were also interested in the displays there about the local brickworks.As it happens, we have a small collection of lettered bricks.  This started with us finding them on our local beach at Spittal.  There is an entire history of northern English and Scottish collieries and brickworks to be revealed from those names.  Luckily the lovely museum attendant at the Tolbooth Musuem knew just where to send us!And so we found ourselves quite unexpectedly rooting around the old Sanquhar brickworks.There were the sad remnants of the buildings ….And we found a brick or two …..Most poignantly, Clarks Little Ark, an animal rescue shelter at this site, have constructed a memorial wall of the old bricks for those dear ones they have lost.Time to go home now – perhaps crawl would be a better description for our heavily-brick-laden car. The weather got nastier and nastier as we travelled up through the Lowther hills …Still extraordinarily beautiful ….We had decided to travel back via the source of the River Tweed, high up in the Lowther Hills. There, masked in the mist and murk, we found this sign. From this point, a tiny stream and all the little tributaries that run into it flow eastwards to where it meets the sea on Spittal beach.This is an iconic spot to many (including us) because it is a great river. Appropriately there is a finely ornamented stone, incorporating words that speak off the Tweed: “it is one of Britain’s cleanest rivers …”Sadly, it was not a clean site.  The rubbish was disgusting and a terrible reflection on lazy, casual visitors. I have an uncomfortable idea that people feel they have license to behave so because Dumfries and Galloway council have not provided a litter bin ….Oh dear, what a negative way to end a great holiday!  So I won’t.  As we travelled through the Borders, the sun shone through the damp leaves, and we slowed down to enjoy the wonderful countryside …. and an antique Rolls Royce … Festina Lente!

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Christmas book lists

With the Christmas present-buying season in full swing, newspapers and magazines are full of lists compiled by the great and the good announcing their favourite reads of the year. Insignificant and mischievous I may be, but I thought I would join them and tell you about a few of the books that I’ve enjoyed this year.

First, I must admit that most of these books are not from this year’s bestseller lists. I pick up books from all sorts of places.  Some of these books were published many years ago. Some have been recommended by family and friends. Some were found in charity and second hand bookshops, and just a couple of these favourites are from recent bestseller lists.Reading notebooksTo help me, I’ve dug out the small notebooks in which I jot down the titles and authors of books I have read – and a few words about the book.  This is not as impressive as it sounds.  I actually do it because it helps me remember what I’ve read!  Alas – all too often these days I find that with favourite authors, I cannot remember which of their titles I have actually read.  It’s a sad day when you return home all excited with another novel by a great author only to find you’ve read it before!On LookingMy first book, On Looking. Eleven Walks with Expert Eyes (by Alexandra Horowitz) was a recommendation from Rebecca of Needle and Spindle, (which was in turn a recommendation from Stephanie of My Vintage Inspiration.)  As the title says, Horowitz embarks on eleven familiar walks with “experts” to try to see her environment with fresh eyes – and the so-called “experts” include her 19-month year old son, Ogden, and her dog, Pumpernickel.  How these two lead her to re-interpret her environment is just as interesting as the recognised experts (who include an illustrator, an animal researcher, a medical doctor, a sound engineer – just to give you some idea of the variety of disciplines she consults for this  research).

I’m a sucker, anyhow,  for walking round big cities with my head in the air, studying the roofs and upper elevations of buildings.  There is so much of interest in just the ordinary of places, and far too often we (like France Cornford’s fat white woman) walk round “missing so much and so much”.  Of all the experts, I learned most from the geologist and the typographer – probably because these disciplines are most alien to me.  Our cities and towns are full of stones and writing – how wonderful to see these familiar materials in a new light!  If you, like me, love to go slow on your walks, looking round and questioning the minutiae of life, this book could be for you.H is for HawkH is for Hawk (by Helen Macdonald) is a prize-winning book (the 2014 Costa Book of the Year and the 2014 Samuel Johnson Prize for Non-Fiction).  Initially, I wasn’t really drawn to it – I’m not terribly interested in raptors, and certainly not falconry.  But my husband had it on his Christmas list last year. As he’d raved about it, and it was sitting about the house, I thought I’d give it a try.

Wow!  It was magical, enveloping, captivating.  It has several strands, and it is the intermingling of these different stories (coupled with her honesty) that, I think, makes the book work so well.  Firstly, it’s a lament for her beloved father.  In one of the early chapters, we hear how the family got the unexpected news of his death.  In many ways, the underlying current in the whole book is her struggle to cope with life again after this family tragedy.

Secondly, there’s the story of Mabel, the goshawk she adopts and trains.  The relationship between her (the falconer) and the bird is as intense and driven as the most passionate love story.  Who knew?  I had no idea it demanded such emotional commitment to train a young goshawk!

Lastly, there’s the story of T.H.White (most commonly known as the author of The Once and Future King) who was also nuts about goshawks, and sadly – indeed tragically – did everything wrong in the training of his particular goshawk.

Why does it all work so well together?   Perhaps because there’s so much hurt, so much pain, in each story?  I don’t know.  But it’s an absolute winner.Moominvalley in NovemberIn November, I read Tove Jansson’s Moominvalley in November  – of course!  You may be surprised to find a children’s book here, but I read a lot of children’s books – often they’re as interesting and challenging as adult fiction.

Moominvalley in November isn’t challenging – it’s melancholy and reflective and perceptive.  Various Moomin friends in various places find themselves unsettled by the season and decide to check out the comforting Moomins in their Moominvalley home – but they aren’t there!  We don’t learn why the Moomin family isn’t at home –  perhaps they’re as unsettled as the other characters? Instead, the novel concentrates on these friends, their interactions, and the way they try to make the Moomin home work in a “Moomin” way.picture of Fillyjonk and the picnicJansson is as skilled at drawing portraits of her characters with words as in pen and ink sketches.  Of them all, I’m most fascinated by Fillyjonk because (reluctantly) I admit to seeing a lot of myself in her.  She wants to be to the others as Moominmama is: she wants to make nice food, clean the house, be motherly.  Of course, she fails to be Moominmama – and the others don’t like her attempts to be Moominmama-ish.  But she does find a way to be happy with being Fillyjonk.  (It’s Fillyjonk wearing those fab pink clothes on the cover, and supervising the picnic in the sketch.)The Silent WeaverPerhaps you too know and love Donnie Monro’s song , The Weaver of Grass?  It’s a gloriously jubilant song with the repeated refrain, The Weaver of Grass is coming home!  I never took much interest in the other words (probably because I was always concentrating on my knitting), but this year, we happened upon Roger Hutchinson’s The Silent Weaver.  The Extraordinary Life and Work of Angus MacPhee in a charity shop (sorry, Roger) so I learned a lot more about this very fascinating man.

Angus MacPhee was born in 1916 on the island of South Uist, part of the Outer Hebrides, and spent his youth there as an unremarkable young man with his humble crofting family.  In 1934, he joined the Lovat Scouts Territorial Army Unit so, when war broke out in September 1939, he was called upon with his fellow Lovat Scouts to garrison the Faroe Islands.  But on these islands, he slid into catatonia – simply stopped speaking and registering speech.  He was shipped back home to South Uist.  Sadly he didn’t recover at home, so he was taken to the Scottish mainland, diagnosed with schizophrenia and remained in asylums for more than 50 years.

In itself that story is intriguing – but what makes it extra fascinating is the grass weavings he made in hospital.  He is known now by the trendy label of Scottish Outsider Artist.  As photos of his work are under copyright, I’ll refer you to an internet search to see what sort of things he was making.

You will rejoice – with Donnie Monro  – to hear that in the 1990s, because of changes in the treatment of patients with mental health problems, Angus was at long last sent back to South Uist.  It’s this return that Donnie Monro celebrates in his famous song.

I’m in two minds about this Outsider Artist status.  What I love about the story, is that Angus MacPhee was by all accounts a very gentle (if silent) man who pottered on through his life, making the best of it, and indeed, just making, of whatever materials he could find, all sorts of things.  A Maker indeed.

And, of course, it came right in the end.  He went home.Sunjeev_Sahota_The_Year_of_the_RunawayWhen, earlier this year I was planning a trip to London and wanted a novel on my Kindle, my eye alighted on Sunjeev Sahota’s The Year of the Runaways  on the 2015 Booker shortlist.  The news was full of terrible stories of migrants, struggling against the odds to leave war-torn and poverty-stricken lives in their native countries so I was interested in a novel that purported to be about migrants.  How glad I am that I did!

It’s the story of three Indian men, Tochi, Randeep and Avtar, and a British-born Indian woman, Narindar.  We learn why they are driven to leave their lives in India (all with tragic overtones) and what happened to them as they struggled to build new lives in Sheffield.

It’s shocking – an eye-opener, without doubt.  Tochi is a chamar (an untouchable) and the personal tragedy that spurs his move to the UK is truly awful.  Avtar is driven to sell a kidney to fund his travels.  And Randeep – poor, foolish Randeep, is swept along by his mother’s aspirations and one stupid moment’s thoughtless action.  Their life in England is miserable – absolutely remorselessly miserable.

Intertwined with this is the story of the devout Sikh woman, Narindar, who has married Randeep in a mercenary contract to allow him to remain in the UK.  She has her own complicated reasons for this action.

I learned a lot reading this book.  It did indeed open my eyes.  But it wasn’t just a lesson – I was completely drawn in by the magic of Sahota’s storytelling powers.  The story takes you to places you would never have imagined – and amid the misery and anguish, there is grace and love and humanity. Not really at all what I was expecting. But just brilliant.my kindle coverThe cover of my Kindle: an old knitted experiment with pattern and colour.

It’s been a struggle to restrict myself to just five books.  There are other wonderful books that I’ve read this year which I’d love to tell you about.

Perhaps you’ve got some recommendations for me? I’d love to hear what you’ve enjoyed reading this year: please tell!

And now here are five books from Stephen:

SolaceThis book is an old friend and stays on my bedside table. A set of essays about the experiences of a woman who goes to live and work as a shepherd in Wyoming. Wonderful descriptions of the landscape, the weather, the problems of tending sheep in such lonely wild terrain – but most of all it is the descriptions of her encounters with the other farmers in the area that are so memorable, all told in beautiful prose but with an almost Camus-like air of detachment.

Another friend’s transmission froze while he was in a bar. The only gear that worked was reverse so he drove the eight miles home backward through two towns and up the hill past the hospital, waving at astonished onlookers all the way. When his wife acused him of drunkenness he said, ‘I just got tired of looking at things in the same old way.’SimenonI have always loved the novels of Georges Simenon ever since I was a student, particularly those which feature Inspector Maigret. I used to collect the old green Penguin Crime editions but starting last year Penguin are issuing all of the Maigret novels in new translations at the rate of one a month – so it will take 75 months! I have currently got up to volume 18. They are all fairly short, about 120 pages or so, but so full of atmosphere, insight and incident. And what a creation is Maigret – nothing like the angst-ridden detectives we seem to prefer these days. No, he is just full of humanity; and he often comes to sympathise with the criminal – If I was in this situation I think I would have done the same.

As Simenon said, My motto to the extent that I have one, has been noted often enough, and I’ve always conformed to it. It’s the one I’ve given to old Maigret, who resembles me in certain points . . . ‘understand and judge not’.StornowayHere we meet R Stornoway who is a drink-addled misfit living on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. How he wants to leave the island for a better life, but that proves impossible for him and his friends, all 30-somethings living off benefits. Highly original, full of verbal invention around the Gaelic language, hilarious, poignant, but ultimately heartbreaking.

Fionnsbagh: the way some albums from your teenage music collection grow bland or raucous over the years so Hey! Your parents were right. And if they were right about that, they might have been right about other things too. Distressing.BalzacI’ve always loved the novels of Balzac, with their marvellous panorama of characters across the whole spectrum of society. I reread Old Goriot about 3 years ago – the tale of a father, miserly but doting on his daughter, who sacrifices all his money to promote her socially – only for her to disdain his shabby penurious existence.

This year I read A Harlot high and Low on my Kindle. (There is a vast range of literature from 50 or more years ago available on line for free from the University of Adelaide – in the last year or so I have downloaded books by George Orwell, Leo Tolstoy, Thomas Hardy et al.) This book is all about high society during the 2nd French Republic in the 1840s. A vivid cast of characters all jostling for social status and, more importantly, the money they need to sustain their position in Parisian society. Boy! is the novel obsessed with money – loans, stock market investments, annuities. The plot is fairly dense, (at times I think I missed some of the details) but the writing and insights shown are superb. The man was a genius.

Paris, you see, is like a forest in the New World where a score of savage tribes, the Illinois, the Hurons, struggle for existence: each group lives on what it can get by hunting  throughout society. You are a hunter of millions; to capture them employ snares, limed twigs, decoys. There are many ways of hunting. Some hunt heiresses, others catch their prey by shady financial transactions; some fish for souls, others sell their clients bound hand and foot. The man who comes back with his game-bag well lined is welcomed, feted, received into good society. Let us be just to this hospitable place, here you have to do with the most accommodating city in the world. If the proud aristocracies of all the capitals of Europe refuse to give a blackguard millionaire admittance to their ranks, Paris holds out her arms to him, runs to his parties, eats is dinners and clinks glasses with his infamy.Grapesof wrathI’ve saved the best to last!

In retirement I have been reading all those novels that I somehow have felt that I ought to have read but never got around to, particularly those by American authors. Novels like On the Road, Catcher in the Rye and The Grapes of Wrath amongst others. Of all these the one that stands out by a mile is The Grapes of Wrath.

Written in 1939 it is set against the background of the Dust Bowl in Oklahoma which forced so many families to travel to California along Route 66 – believed to be a promised land. The story tells of the Joad family and of their false hopes, thwarted desires and broken dreams. And yet out of all of this suffering Steinbeck weaves a drama that is at the same time majestic but also intensely human. It has a great sense of moral vision, of the basic goodness of the common people, a tribute to many of the values we seem to be losing from our Western society.

The second son of the family, Tom Joad, an archetypal anti-hero, eventually overcomes his criminal past to take on responsibility for the family. John Ford’s film adaptation of the novel inspired Woody Guthrie to write the song ‘The Ballad of Tom Joad’. In its turn this inspired Bruce Springsteen to write the song ‘The Ghost of Tom Joad’, which was also the name of his 11th studio album of the same name. Springsteen clearly identified himself with the social activism of the 1930s and tried to give voice to the unseen and unheard.

Throughout the novel the Joad family, dispossessed from their land and with no material resources, keep their dignity; and what little they have they share with those in the same situation. And the final pages of the book reduced me to tears when the daughter whose infant child had just died shortly after being born gives comfort to a starving stranger.